How hard is it to replace an ignition switch on a Craftsman chainsaw?

[The Tradition]

JFC. The stupid switch just broke while I was cutting some tree debris down to size. Mostly done thank God, but now I have a broken chainsaw. I looked up the part and it's only like $5, but I can't find a YouTube video explaining how to replace this part on a Craftsman chainsaw model 316.381880. Any help from the HBOT peanut gallery?

 

[GOHOX69]

JFC. The stupid switch just broke while I was cutting some tree debris down to size. Mostly done thank God, but now I have a broken chainsaw. I looked up the part and it's only like $5, but I can't find a YouTube video explaining how to replace this part on a Craftsman chainsaw model 316.381880. Any help from the HBOT peanut gallery?

I thought you had money.

 

[The Tradition]

I thought you had money.

I have money because I don't give it to people if I can DIY it.

 

[TennNole17]

Doesn't sears have manuals online? Not a video but could help

 

[Kelsers]

JFC. The stupid switch just broke while I was cutting some tree debris down to size. Mostly done thank God, but now I have a broken chainsaw. I looked up the part and it's only like $5, but I can't find a YouTube video explaining how to replace this part on a Craftsman chainsaw model 316.381880. Any help from the HBOT peanut gallery?

How do you know that's the problem?

 

[The Tradition]

How do you know that's the problem?

Because the switch broke off in my hand.

 

[Gimmered]

Repairclinic.com shows the switch but doesn't have a video. Looks like it snaps into the cover and has 2 wires, one pushes on and one with a screw. Most likely takes a T-25 torx screw driver to remove the cover.

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/On-Off-Switch/953-08223/3540135#relatedMedia

 

[The Tradition]

Repairclinic.com shows the switch but doesn't have a video. Looks like it snaps into the cover and has 2 wires, one pushes on and one with a screw. Most likely takes a T-25 torx screw driver to remove the cover.

A guy who wrote a review of the replacement part said it was challenging because you have to disassemble so much of the saw to install it, and then put everything back together.

 

[Joes Place]

I thought you had money.

On a scale of 1-10, that job is probably a 0.5

So he should probably pay a 7th grade dropout at the repair shop to do it for him for $75/hr.
It'll be a $50 repair bill for him, as it's a 15 min fix and they'll charge him for 40 min.

 

[Gimmered]

A guy who wrote a review of the replacement part said it was challenging because you have to disassemble so much of the saw to install it, and then put everything back together.

Looks like it should be the starter rope cover and the air filter cover, but I'm not sure where the ignition is at, front or back of the motor. I saw one video where they were actually able to use a screw drive, pop out the switch and disconnect the wire at the switch and push them on the new switch. Not sure what saw that was though.

 

[The Tradition]

On a scale of 1-10, that job is probably a 0.5

So he should probably pay a 7th grade dropout at the repair shop to do it for him for $75/hr.
It'll be a $50 repair bill for him, as it's a 15 min fix and they'll charge him for 40 min.

She's been a great saw. I've had her for about 10 years and she eagerly starts and runs like a champ. Sips fuel, too. Long run time between fill ups. Hate to throw her away because of a cheap kill switch module.

 

[Joes Place]

She's been a great saw. I've had her for about 10 years and she eagerly starts and runs like a champ. Sips fuel, too. Long run time between fill ups. Hate to throw her away because of a cheap kill switch module.

This is replacing an entire ignition module
Most likely, the switch attaches to this, and similar disassembly to access it; you probably need a small flathead screwdriver or pocketknife to push in the side tabs that hold the original switch to the housing and pop it out; new one should pop right in to the same knockout/hole.

It looks like this module is on the opposite side of the saw from the ignition switch, so you may have to remove something from that side to access those lock-on tabs to pop the old switch out.

 

[bagdropper]

Look for the Craftsman part number of the SAW first. Usually it'll be in a format of nnn.nnnnnn.

Search for the owner's manual. Usually you can find a free copy somewhere - I have all the manuals for my Craftsman stuff and some of it is 25+ years old.

Craftsman OM's usually have an exploded parts page or two where you can get the exact part number for the switch.

Then search for the switch's part number. Most times you can find it on Amazon or Ebay. Ideally, Ebay probably is the better option because that way you should get the exact original Craftsman part from a saw that's been parted out.

After that, chances are Youtube has a video out there that'll show you haw to change it out pretty close to the exact saw.



Edited to add, you already got all this info, good job!

 

[The Tradition]

View embedded media

This is replacing an entire ignition module
Most likely, the switch attaches to this, and similar disassembly to access it; you probably need a small flathead screwdriver or pocketknife to push in the side tabs that hold the original switch to the housing and pop it out; new one should pop right in to the same knockout/hole.

It looks like this module is on the opposite side of the saw from the ignition switch, so you may have to remove something from that side to access those lock-on tabs to pop the old switch out.

That's the problem I'm running into. Completely different from my model, and a different switch.

Switch Assembly 753-08223 parts | Sears PartsDirect

Switch Assembly 753-08223 parts - manufacturer-approved parts for a proper fit every time! We also have installation guides, diagrams and manuals to help you along the way!

www.searspartsdirect.com

 

[Joes Place]

This looks like the kill switch is accessible in this vid for fuel line replacement, too

 

[Joes Place]

If you can't find an exact model video, and have to "wing it", I'd recommend getting a small plastic parts bin/compartment set to put screws and assembly parts in to as you go.

Put each new "thing" into a new bin in the order you take them apart; then you just go backwards when re-assembling. This minimizes the confusion of which screw or part goes where and in what order.

Also, if you have a number of different colored Sharpie pens, that's another way to "idiot-proof" the disassembly.

Color the tops of all the screws you're taking out w/ one color Sharpie, and put that color mark on the area you took them out (use white electrical tape if the housing is too dark to see the colors, and color the tape piece).

When you take things apart in order, and carefully document what each thing is and where it goes (even use your phone to take snapshots if that helps you), you'll minimize the risk of forgetting where something went and leaving parts/screws off that might disable your device.

 

[bagdropper]

My bet is this ain't gonna be that tough a job overall.

The switch has a circular end (most likely a ground that is attached under a bolt or nut to the engine block) and then a female connector at the other which plugs into a male end elsewhere.

The tricky part most likely will be removing the covers enough to get at the internal area where the switch resides. Then, trace the wires back to where they terminate, unplug/unscrew and replace.

An exploded view of the owner's manual parts list will most likely show you what screws hold the cover(s) to where you can get to the switch internally.

The tricky parts will be the carb/choke linkage as well as any attached to a primer bulb (if applicable). TAKE PICTURES WHILE DISASSEMBLING. Reassembly is always the toughest part of a job like this.

Me, I've torn several chain saws apart in my life (and have two from the early 70's I'll be tackling this winter). But a novice who has never taken something like this apart...all I'll say is good luck.



BTW, this is an MTD made saw, but on Sears Parts Direct I found the exploded parts image - this is indeed a reasonably challenging fix because you're going to possibly have to separate the handle assembly from the rest of the saw.

My opinion? Not for the inexperienced chain saw mechanic. YMMV. Me...no problem though, but I'd still judge it as "possibly challenging" even for me if a serious disassembling is indeed required.

 

[The Tradition]

My bet is this ain't gonna be that tough a job overall.

The switch has a circular end (most likely a ground that is attached under a bolt or nut to the engine block) and then a female connector at the other which plugs into a male end elsewhere.

The tricky part most likely will be removing the covers enough to get at the internal area where the switch resides. Then, trace the wires back to where they terminate, unplug/unscrew and replace.

An exploded view of the owner's manual parts list will most likely show you what screws hold the cover(s) to where you can get to the switch internally.

The tricky parts will be the carb/choke linkage as well as any attached to a primer bulb (if applicable). TAKE PICTURES WHILE DISASSEMBLING. Reassembly is always the toughest part of a job like this.

Me, I've torn several chain saws apart in my life (and have two from the early 70's I'll be tackling this winter). But a novice who has never taken something like this apart...all I'll say is good luck.



BTW, this is an MTD made saw, but on Sears Parts Direct I found the exploded parts image - this is indeed a reasonably challenging fix because you're going to possibly have to separate the handle assembly from the rest of the saw.

My opinion? Not for the inexperienced chain saw mechanic. YMMV. Me...no problem though, but I'd still judge it as "possibly challenging" even for me if a serious disassembling is indeed required.

Yeah, I think I'll see what the local small engine repair guy wants to fix it. But not right now when he's probably swamped with customers who can't get their generators to start.

 

[SolarHawk]

It's a single pole switch. It should be very easy to replace. You may need some crimpers and butt splices, but that's about it I would imagine.

 

[Joes Place]

It's a single pole switch. It should be very easy to replace. You may need some crimpers and butt splices, but that's about it I would imagine.

That part is easy; it's the disassembly/reassembly to access it that's the concern.

It's not a terribly difficult job, but if you're not used to doing that type of stuff it can be pretty challenging. If you follow some basic guidelines as I'd noted above, it can be pretty manageable for more people with common tools. But, if you're not good at this type of stuff, it will take you a lot longer than someone who does it for a living, and at that point sometimes it's worth your time to farm it off. Even moreso if it requires specialty tools that you'd have to buy and do not have on hand.

 

[SalAunese]

Why buy a cheap chainsaw?

 

[Joes Place]

Why buy a cheap chainsaw?

He said it was an older chainsaw; probably better built than much of the stuff you find out on the market today.

Tools made 15-20 yrs ago are generally far more reliable (and repairable)

 

[thewop]

None of that stuff is very difficult, but this is the wrong forum for it.

This is a forum for millionaires and billionaires, we pay other people to do that stuff.

Check YouTube

 

[Joes Place]

None of that stuff is very difficult, but this is the wrong forum for it.

This is a forum for millionaires and billionaires, we pay other people to do that stuff.

Check YouTube

Not terribly helpful to someone trying to clean up from after a hurricane, when many (if not most) of the local repair shops don't have a ton of spare time for small jobs...

 

[bagdropper]

I dunno if I'd say it's a cheap saw. Hell, I cut damn near 20 pickup loads of derecho wood with a $150 Poulan. Yes, it needed a new Oregon chain and bar early on but that was only $40 more. I still use it yet today...damn good chain saw.

MTD does make some decent/good stuff. Take care of it, don't ask it to do more than its capable of...Trad'll probably get damn good use out of that saw once repaired.

 

[HawkinK.C.1]

You can probably replace it with any switch that will fit in the hole. The auto parts store might have something. If you're desperate. Just take it out and keep the wires apart. Pull the spark plug wire off when you need to kill it.