For years Rand Faaborg, a father of five in rural Iowa, wanted to get out of hog farming. He just didn’t know how.
He’d built two barns in 1991, a few hundred yards from the family’s farmhouse, and fattened up thousands of hogs at a time. But by 2020, Mr. Faaborg was exhausted and making a fraction of what he’d earned from hogs three decades earlier. He and his wife felt trapped. They didn’t want to raise hogs anymore or live alongside them, yet they had poured half a million dollars into paying off the loans on the barns and replacing the roofs.
“I don’t know that I could even get across how much work we have spent over these decades down here with these buildings,” said Mr. Faaborg, who is 67 and still working a day job in metal manufacturing, as he stood alongside the barns one sunny morning last month. “To just walk away from it, to let them fall to disrepair and bulldoze them down, it would be hard.”
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But this summer, with help from a nonprofit group and a leap of faith, the Faaborg farm is in the middle of a noisy, radical transformation. The Faaborgs have traded hogs for mushrooms in an effort to restore balance to the land, and to their lives.
The last of their hogs shipped out in the fall of 2022. Mushrooms for medicinal tinctures and a coffee blend are now being grown in an outbuilding, and a hog barn is being retrofitted to grow specialty mushrooms. Elsewhere on the land, hundreds of native trees have been planted and a pollinator-friendly field has been sown. A sediment-choked creek is set to be restored, and the open lagoon that once held a million gallons of hog waste is being converted into a freshwater pond.
The person driving the changes is Rand Faaborg’s second-oldest son, Tanner Faaborg, 40. He hopes to make his family’s farm a blueprint in the Midwest, to show how people can leave industrial farming, grow environmentally friendly and profitable food, and, in turn, help rebuild hollowed-out communities.
“I want to make rural America a place where people want to live and grow up in,” Tanner Faaborg said. Absent significant changes, he said, the heartland will end up becoming “oneEditors’ Picks
“That’s not what I want to see,” he said.
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Rand and Tammy Faaborg moved their family from the town of Nevada, Iowa, outside Ames, to the 25-acre farm northeast of Des Moines in 1986, wanting a country life. They lived frugally, growing, canning and freezing their own fruits and vegetables, and making their own clothes. The animals they raised lived in fields and had names.
Shortly after Tanner turned 8, his parents decided to go into the business of running a concentrated animal feeding operation, or CAFO, also known as a factory farm. The Faaborgs could take out a loan for no money down to build hog barns. A pork producer would supply thousands of young hogs and feed, and the Faaborgs would raise them and dispose of the manure. The income would supplement the $6 an hour that Rand Faaborg earned as a welder.
“The offer sounded so good, and we had such little money,” Tanner Faaborg said.
It was round-the-clock work. The barns were filled with small pens that each held nearly two dozen hogs, for a total of 1,100 hogs per barn. The animals never went outside. They grew more stressed and aggressive as time went on, knocking over and biting whoever went into the pens to scrape away manure, the Faaborgs said.
Once the hogs reached six months old and 280 pounds each, they were sent to slaughter. Loading them onto waiting trucks took Rand Faaborg and the children all night, and afterward he’d head straight to his day job and the kids went to school. The family would spend the next few days pressure-washing the barns before another 2,200 young hogs would be delivered and the cycle would begin again. They gave vast amounts of manure to crop farmers to fertilize fields.
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Over the years, the communities around the Faaborgs changed. Small farms disappeared as older farmers retired or died and their children moved away. The land was swallowed up by large agricultural companies. Iowa is now home to 4,000 factory farms, more than any other state. It also produces the most animal waste, which generates a significant amount of greenhouse gasses and contaminates waterways. After torrential downpours this past spring and summer, environmentalists warned of floodwaters carrying untreated animal waste, which they called “fecal soup.”
“I don’t think people really understand the extent of that growth and the negative impact that it’s had on our rural communities,” Tanner Faaborg said. “There’s been population declines, small towns in Iowa are dying. With consolidation comes efficiencies, but at what cost?”
Image
He’d built two barns in 1991, a few hundred yards from the family’s farmhouse, and fattened up thousands of hogs at a time. But by 2020, Mr. Faaborg was exhausted and making a fraction of what he’d earned from hogs three decades earlier. He and his wife felt trapped. They didn’t want to raise hogs anymore or live alongside them, yet they had poured half a million dollars into paying off the loans on the barns and replacing the roofs.
Listen to this article with reporter commentary
“I don’t know that I could even get across how much work we have spent over these decades down here with these buildings,” said Mr. Faaborg, who is 67 and still working a day job in metal manufacturing, as he stood alongside the barns one sunny morning last month. “To just walk away from it, to let them fall to disrepair and bulldoze them down, it would be hard.”
Advertisement
SKIP ADVERTISEMENT
But this summer, with help from a nonprofit group and a leap of faith, the Faaborg farm is in the middle of a noisy, radical transformation. The Faaborgs have traded hogs for mushrooms in an effort to restore balance to the land, and to their lives.
The last of their hogs shipped out in the fall of 2022. Mushrooms for medicinal tinctures and a coffee blend are now being grown in an outbuilding, and a hog barn is being retrofitted to grow specialty mushrooms. Elsewhere on the land, hundreds of native trees have been planted and a pollinator-friendly field has been sown. A sediment-choked creek is set to be restored, and the open lagoon that once held a million gallons of hog waste is being converted into a freshwater pond.
The person driving the changes is Rand Faaborg’s second-oldest son, Tanner Faaborg, 40. He hopes to make his family’s farm a blueprint in the Midwest, to show how people can leave industrial farming, grow environmentally friendly and profitable food, and, in turn, help rebuild hollowed-out communities.
“I want to make rural America a place where people want to live and grow up in,” Tanner Faaborg said. Absent significant changes, he said, the heartland will end up becoming “oneEditors’ Picks
“That’s not what I want to see,” he said.
Image
Image
Rand and Tammy Faaborg moved their family from the town of Nevada, Iowa, outside Ames, to the 25-acre farm northeast of Des Moines in 1986, wanting a country life. They lived frugally, growing, canning and freezing their own fruits and vegetables, and making their own clothes. The animals they raised lived in fields and had names.
Shortly after Tanner turned 8, his parents decided to go into the business of running a concentrated animal feeding operation, or CAFO, also known as a factory farm. The Faaborgs could take out a loan for no money down to build hog barns. A pork producer would supply thousands of young hogs and feed, and the Faaborgs would raise them and dispose of the manure. The income would supplement the $6 an hour that Rand Faaborg earned as a welder.
“The offer sounded so good, and we had such little money,” Tanner Faaborg said.
It was round-the-clock work. The barns were filled with small pens that each held nearly two dozen hogs, for a total of 1,100 hogs per barn. The animals never went outside. They grew more stressed and aggressive as time went on, knocking over and biting whoever went into the pens to scrape away manure, the Faaborgs said.
Once the hogs reached six months old and 280 pounds each, they were sent to slaughter. Loading them onto waiting trucks took Rand Faaborg and the children all night, and afterward he’d head straight to his day job and the kids went to school. The family would spend the next few days pressure-washing the barns before another 2,200 young hogs would be delivered and the cycle would begin again. They gave vast amounts of manure to crop farmers to fertilize fields.
Advertisement
SKIP ADVERTISEMENT
Over the years, the communities around the Faaborgs changed. Small farms disappeared as older farmers retired or died and their children moved away. The land was swallowed up by large agricultural companies. Iowa is now home to 4,000 factory farms, more than any other state. It also produces the most animal waste, which generates a significant amount of greenhouse gasses and contaminates waterways. After torrential downpours this past spring and summer, environmentalists warned of floodwaters carrying untreated animal waste, which they called “fecal soup.”
“I don’t think people really understand the extent of that growth and the negative impact that it’s had on our rural communities,” Tanner Faaborg said. “There’s been population declines, small towns in Iowa are dying. With consolidation comes efficiencies, but at what cost?”
Image