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small engine repair gurus

QChawks

HR King
Feb 11, 2013
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Quad Cities
I have a self propelled lawn mower with a electric starter, the battery died a few years ago so I've just been using the pull cord. No issues, well i decided to buy a replacement battery and use the key start again.

Although I put the new battery in yesterday, turned the key and nothing, no clicking, no nothing. I removed the starter solenoid thinking maybe it was seized from no use, but it spins just fine. In fact, if i hook it directly to the battery it fires up. I took my multi-meter to the wire that plugs into the key housing and there is no power there, nor is there power at the fuse off the battery (tested fuse and it's okay).

Any idea what else it could be?

Sure I could take to a small engine repair shop but I feel like it's got to be something really simple.
 
I have a self propelled lawn mower with a electric starter, the battery died a few years ago so I've just been using the pull cord. No issues, well i decided to buy a replacement battery and use the key start again.

Although I put the new battery in yesterday, turned the key and nothing, no clicking, no nothing. I removed the starter solenoid thinking maybe it was seized from no use, but it spins just fine. In fact, if i hook it directly to the battery it fires up. I took my multi-meter to the wire that plugs into the key housing and there is no power there, nor is there power at the fuse off the battery (tested fuse and it's okay).

Any idea what else it could be?

Sure I could take to a small engine repair shop but I feel like it's got to be something really simple.

Maybe the original battery was fine, but you have a fuse or wiring issue.

Use your continuity test on your multimeter to figure out where the broken wire is.
Sometimes, it's just easier to clip off the old wire, and rewire in an entirely fresh wire between connections, doing a good job to insulate/shield it from any stress or abrasion (which is often what messed up the original one).

EDIT: might even be a bad switch for the starter - test that first and see if it connects to "0" ohms when you actuate it.
 
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Maybe the original battery was fine, but you have a fuse or wiring issue.

Use your continuity test on your multimeter to figure out where the broken wire is.
Sometimes, it's just easier to clip off the old wire, and rewire in an entirely fresh wire between connections, doing a good job to insulate/shield it from any stress or abrasion (which is often what messed up the original one).

EDIT: might even be a bad switch for the starter - test that first and see if it connects to "0" ohms when you actuate it.

good advice. The old battery was certainly dead as I charged it and got zero reading on the multi-meter. I think you might be on to something with a cut in the line. Obviously there should be power to one of the lines to the key so somewhere it’s losing connection. Even when I test the charging cable port it reads 12.5 volts so I know part of the line is working.

so frustrating!
 
Borrow the neighbors.

I hate everything when it comes to mowing lawn. They don’t start and that Fing weed trimmer doesn’t hold the god damn string in it after I wind it.......

Khaaaaaannn!!!!!!!!!!!

mower is fine, just have pull start it the old fashioned way is all. I don’t mind mowing in the spring and fall but I hate it when it’s 80+ degrees.
 
In my limited experience, you can beat a push mower into submission by strongly gripping the push handle on either side and lifting entire mower into air a minimum of 18 inches and slamming to the ground 2-3 times. Not sure why it works, but it does.
 
good advice. The old battery was certainly dead as I charged it and got zero reading on the multi-meter. I think you might be on to something with a cut in the line. Obviously there should be power to one of the lines to the key so somewhere it’s losing connection. Even when I test the charging cable port it reads 12.5 volts so I know part of the line is working.

so frustrating!
Yep. Assuming the fuse is before the keyswitch, start there and work your way back to the battery.
 
In my limited experience, you can beat a mower into submission by strongly gripping the push handle on either side and lifting entire mower into air a minimum of 18 inches and slamming to the ground 2-3 times in rage. Not sure why it works, but it does.

Yep.... I can verify that that procedure does work.
 
Return battery. Get wife to pull start it, sissy.

Actually, I watched a a few vids out of curiosity. Little more involved than I thought. But you mentioned the solenoid worked bench testing. A solenoid that works or clicks has to also have continuity from the positive post to the post going to the starter.

So that's one thing to check.
 
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good advice. The old battery was certainly dead as I charged it and got zero reading on the multi-meter. I think you might be on to something with a cut in the line. Obviously there should be power to one of the lines to the key so somewhere it’s losing connection. Even when I test the charging cable port it reads 12.5 volts so I know part of the line is working.

so frustrating!

At least it's just on a small yard appliance; you get electrical issues like that on a car, and it is the absolute devil.

You can detach the battery, and just put the multimeter on contact points from the starter to each battery side, then to the switch and figure out which segment has a break in it.

Or, just test the switch itself and if that is good, just rewire it entirely; would also make sure you have it fused; you can get inline fuse wiring setups off Amazon for like $10 and it includes about any fuse rating you'd need. I've got some of those for rebuilding NiMH battery packs with Li-ion for my Worx weedeater, as safety-fusing Li-ion is a very very good idea so you don't start big fires and burn yourself.

Would recommend getting heat-shrink tubing to cover any splices you put in, as well. A regular hair dryer will work on that - just very slow compared to a heat gun.
 
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Everyone on HROT used to be immensely wealthy, and had people for mundane yard work. I wonder what happened? This neighborhood is going downhill fast. :cool:

oddly enough I like fixing stuff like this. Same reason I do my own auto repair. It’s on my time, no waiting in repair shops or dropping things off. It’s fun to me, well when it’s not something stupid electrical like this 😃
 
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oddly enough I like fixing stuff like this. Same reason I do my own auto repair. It’s on my time, no waiting in repair shops or dropping things off. It’s fun to me, well when it’s not something stupid electrical like this 😃
I hear you. I'm stubborn like that myself sometimes. I can afford to hire someone but want to do it myself. I guess that goes back to when I couldn't afford to hire someone.
 
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oddly enough I like fixing stuff like this.
I'd rather fix it, than landfill it.

My freezer icemaker quit working ~5 yrs ago. Found a Youtube vid that showed how the poor design allowed moisture into the heating element contacts; showed you how to take it apart easily and check.

About a 1 hr job overall, and just cleaning off contacts and fluxing over them, been working ever since.

New unit ran >$200, online price. Install would have cost me another $200 or more. Now I know exactly how to clean it off again, if it corrodes/stops working.
 
oddly enough I like fixing stuff like this. Same reason I do my own auto repair. It’s on my time, no waiting in repair shops or dropping things off. It’s fun to me, well when it’s not something stupid electrical like this 😃

Honestly, when it's something I have the tools for, it's about as much time to fix myself, as it is to coordinate dropping off somewhere for someone else to fix. Stuff I don't have the equipment for, I farm out.
 
Or... Take it to @bagdropper and he'll have that thing fixed up and purring like a kitten in no time.

Working at the moment, I'll take a fuller read after.

My initial thinking is the lack of use has contacts corroded. Also, something like a seat switch or pushing in brake pedal type thing.

Not getting power out of the key is the clue, therefore what pieces of the puzzle can stop that is the fix. Battery is good, fuse is good...but what else is involved.

The switch itself too, from lack of use, comes to mind.
 
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Working at the moment, I'll take a fuller read after.

My initial thinking is the lack of use has contacts corroded. Also, something like a seat switch or pushing in brake pedal type thing.

Not getting power out of the key is the clue, therefore what pieces of the puzzle can stop that is the fix. Battery is good, fuse is good...but what else is involved.

The switch itself too, from lack of use, comes to mind.
Right, but if I read correctly no voltage to the fuse, which would indicate as you said contacts or a broken wire upstream. Hard to diagnose without understanding exactly how the wiring is run.
 
Right, but if I read correctly no voltage to the fuse, which would indicate as you said contacts or a broken wire upstream. Hard to diagnose without understanding exactly how the wiring is run.

Yeah, I read it wrong anyway. Self propelled - I was thinking a riding mower.

Digging in now...
 
I have a self propelled lawn mower with a electric starter, the battery died a few years ago so I've just been using the pull cord. No issues, well i decided to buy a replacement battery and use the key start again.

Although I put the new battery in yesterday, turned the key and nothing, no clicking, no nothing. I removed the starter solenoid thinking maybe it was seized from no use, but it spins just fine. In fact, if i hook it directly to the battery it fires up. I took my multi-meter to the wire that plugs into the key housing and there is no power there, nor is there power at the fuse off the battery (tested fuse and it's okay).

Any idea what else it could be?

Sure I could take to a small engine repair shop but I feel like it's got to be something really simple.

OK, here's how I would look at this. Keep in mind, I don't know what exact mower you have, therefore don't know what components are involved and in what method they are wired.

"nor is there power at the fuse off the battery (tested fuse and it's okay)"

My initial thinking is, do you have the owner's manual? Reason is, usually with electric start mowers of any type, there's a wiring diagram in the manual. That would go a long way to showing you where the power runs from battery to key (and thru what else, such as the solenoid or a relay etc).

You need a wiring map...I know I would. Then all you need is your multimeter or a simple test light...then follow the juice from battery to key.
 
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OK, here's how I would look at this. Keep in mind, I don't know what exact mower you have, therefore don't know what components are involved and in what method they are wired.

"nor is there power at the fuse off the battery (tested fuse and it's okay)"

My initial thinking is, do you have the owner's manual? Reason is, usually with electric start mowers of any type, there's a wiring diagram in the manual. That would go a long way to showing you where the power runs from battery to key (and thru what else, such as the solenoid or a relay etc).

You need a wiring map...I know I would. Then all you need is your multimeter or a simple test light...then follow the juice from battery to key.

I have the manual but there is no diagram. I even googled it and nothing comes up for my model. Although they all seem rather the same. There are four points (key, battery, ignition and solenoid)

tonight I jumped the battery plug connection (has power) to try and see if that would feed to key. All it did was fry the fuse.

tomorrow I’m going to unravel all the wires and see if there is another small inline fuse in there somewhere.
 
Bad fetzer valve? You might need to replace the ball bearings. It’s all ball bearings these days.
 
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I have a self propelled lawn mower with a electric starter, the battery died a few years ago so I've just been using the pull cord. No issues, well i decided to buy a replacement battery and use the key start again.

Although I put the new battery in yesterday, turned the key and nothing, no clicking, no nothing. I removed the starter solenoid thinking maybe it was seized from no use, but it spins just fine. In fact, if i hook it directly to the battery it fires up. I took my multi-meter to the wire that plugs into the key housing and there is no power there, nor is there power at the fuse off the battery (tested fuse and it's okay).

Any idea what else it could be?

Sure I could take to a small engine repair shop but I feel like it's got to be something really simple.
Sounds like dirty battery connections, broken wire or bad ground.
 
I have the manual but there is no diagram. I even googled it and nothing comes up for my model. Although they all seem rather the same. There are four points (key, battery, ignition and solenoid)

tonight I jumped the battery plug connection (has power) to try and see if that would feed to key. All it did was fry the fuse.

tomorrow I’m going to unravel all the wires and see if there is another small inline fuse in there somewhere.

Crap.

Just guessing, but to me it should go battery to solenoid to starter. Then solenoid to key twice (one to crank, one to run). The solenoid and key will have a ground each. So, 4 points on the solenoid (battery power, key start, key run, ground). The key would have 5(?) points...off, start, run, ground and accessory (maybe).

Where the fuse is in all that for me is the unknown. My thinking is it would be from key switch to solenoid start signal. Therefore, in that alignment, the key is not sending power to the solenoid thru the fuse to signal it to tell the starter to crank over. I can just see the points inside the key switch being corroded over juuuuuuuuuuuuuuust enough to not pass the signal.

That'd be my guess anyway. Unfortunately, I've never owned a battery starter mower of any type, and the only other machine I own that might be similar would be the various outboard motors I've owned which have never had this issue. But the fact you can rope start it tells me at least the key in one fashion is working because I assume you have to turn it to run position to get it to run.

Hmmm...
 
I fixed it!

I finally worked it back to a ground somewhere and the electrical system has a tiny micro-switch that completes the circuit when you pull the handle.

The switch wasn’t engaging fully due to a bunch grass in the way, cleaned it out and BAM!!

I was seriously starting to go mad 😆
 
My starter motor burned out, so I just pull it. I thought about replacing it, but it started on the first pull after sitting all winter, so I think I will keep the $50 in my pocket.
 
My starter motor burned out, so I just pull it. I thought about replacing it, but it started on the first pull after sitting all winter, so I think I will keep the $50 in my pocket.

I don’t blame you, the main reason I wanted to fix the key start was my oldest will be ready to begin mowing soon 😀
 
I fixed it!

I finally worked it back to a ground somewhere and the electrical system has a tiny micro-switch that completes the circuit when you pull the handle.

The switch wasn’t engaging fully due to a bunch grass in the way, cleaned it out and BAM!!

I was seriously starting to go mad 😆

So grass was the problem? Seems rather fitting for 420 day.
 
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