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Time Machine: The Lark in Tiffin started as a roadhouse

cigaretteman

HR King
May 29, 2001
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Roadhouses outside small Iowa towns were often slightly sketchy places where people could go to dine and dance, but also illegally gamble and drink, during the 1920s and into the 1950s.


But after Iowa lawmakers approved liquor-by-the-drink sales in Iowa bars and restaurants in 1963, the roadhouses morphed into respectable supper clubs. One of them — The Lark, in the Johnson County city of Tiffin — became one of the finest restaurants in Eastern Iowa.


But first came the roadhouse raids during Prohibition.


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News reports of raids began popping up at the Tiff-Inn, The Lark’s predecessor, in the 1920s.


Johnson County Sheriff Frank Smith and his officers raided the Tiff-Inn on Jan. 8, 1928, confiscating a gambling machine and punch boards. They proceeded to the home of the cafe’s owners, Al and Mildred Simpson, a block away, where they seized seven half-pints of alcohol and more than a quart of moonshine.


The proliferation of roadhouses in the county made policing them a challenge and, in November, Smith ordered all of them to close by 11 p.m.


More raids​


In late 1932, Henry Lessman bought the Tiff-Inn, leasing it to Ken and Fern Ingham, who kept the dining, dancing, drinking and gambling in place.


In July 1939, 100 peace officers — who had been attending training at the University of Iowa — raided 18 Johnson County taverns, including the Tiff-Inn and the neighboring Club 88, operated by John Agnew.


They seized a dozen slot machines and other gaming equipment.








“The tavern owners have been warned several times in the past but did not pay attention,” Johnson County Attorney Harold Vestermark said. “From now on we will crack down at every opportunity. We will even close the taverns if necessary.”


Undeterred, the Inghams built an addition to the Tiff-Inn in October 1940 and also bought Club 88 from Agnew.


Another raid in December 1941 failed to find any problems. But a raid in August 1942 found gambling devices. Ingham was fined $100, and the sheriff destroyed the gaming machines.


A 1945 report on gambling in Johnson County stated, “Things are tighter than a drum in Iowa City, but in outlying districts, such as Tiffin and West Liberty, things are quite loose.”


Dale Dahnke — remember that name — bought Club 88 in 1949, the year it and Ralph’s Place in Tiffin were raided and nine slot machines seized.


The Lark​


In 1950, John and Rose Agnew — the former owners of Club 88 — decided to open a new supper club but were stumped on what to name it. They discussed it with friends, and one friend said, “We’re having such a lark trying to find a name, why don’t you just call it The Lark?”


The name stuck, and The Lark Supper Club and Lounge replaced the Tiff-Inn in 1951.


John Agnew died in 1955, and Dale and Kay Dahnke bought The Lark, beginning a remodeling that took two years. They would operate the supper club for the next 21 years.


After Iowa approved liquor-by-the-drink in 1963, The Lark was among the first six Johnson County establishments to obtain a license, following the University Athletic Club and four Coralville spots.


By 1971, Dale Dahnke was talking about again expanding The Lark.


“We’ve already outgrown the last remodeling we did,” he said. “We need more banquet rooms and probably another bar in addition to the three we’ve got now. I’m expecting to get those changes made withing the next six months.”


In November 1976, Shirley and Bob Thompson, who liked dining at The Lark, bought the restaurant from the Dahnkes. The Thompsons, who operated the Ironmen Inn in Coralville, would operate The Lark for the next 23 years.


Bob Thompson said that when he and his wife bought the club from the Dahnkes, they “came back every night to help out until I knew what I was doing.”


In the years that followed, Midwest Living named The Lark the best steakhouse in Iowa. Big Ten sports writers voted it the best steakhouse in the conference. Iowa football players would dine there some Friday nights before a home game. And in 1988, the Iowa Beef Industry Council gave the club its highest honor for being “Iowa’s best beef supporting restaurant.”


The fire​


In 1999, the Thompsons sold The Lark to Jim and Kris Kharbush.


A little more than a year later, on Nov. 4, 2000, fire destroyed the landmark supper club. The fire started in the kitchen, with the cause determined as accidental.


The loss was estimated at $732,000 — or more than $1 million in today’s dollars.


“This building caused unique challenges to us,” Tiffin Fire Chief Chris Justice said. “There are at least three additions to it … and one more building. We had limited access to the fire and that made it more difficult.”


Today, a strip mall sits on the land once occupied by The Lark in Tiffin, home now to more than 4,500 residents.

 
I've eaten there a couple of times and the story now has me trying to think of something they did there that was different or unique to other supper clubs. Help please!
 
I've eaten there a couple of times and the story now has me trying to think of something they did there that was different or unique to other supper clubs. Help please!
Frog legs.
 
I only went there like 2-3 times. Trying to place where it was located, is it in location where Casa Tequila is now?
 
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