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Auto repair shops

I can and have done minor repairs by know when I’m out of my depth. I don’t have serious tools or anything.
Same here. I do have quite a bit of tools that I've built up and will take on as much as I can but there are some things I won't mess with. 💩 like alignments, engine or transmission work no way. Replacing brakes, bearings, struts, shocks, somewhat easy to reach sensors, bulbs, I'll give it a go. YouTube helps a lot.
 
I have a 61 Chevy with a 283 and a 73 Merc with the429 what I was specifically talking about was my 96 Windstar. Yeah parts for older v8 cars are fine (china usually)and I can source a lot of the parts for that 96 using like RockAuto and stuff. But I used to work at one of those big auto parts stores like AutoZone but it wasn't AutoZone . I'm telling you certain parts are a no-go for that 96 and even at Ford. I go to the Ford dealer all the time here in Austin. The mechanics at the Ford dealer said they will not touch it any longer they have wiped out their computers of all the info on the 90 s stuff.
It's getting kind of hard to find Ford motorcraft parts have to go with aftermarket chineseium.
Another option is savage yards.
 
Engines last +2 times longer than 60-80's autos.

Any engine is killable if the owner doesn't know how to or try to take care of them. And they're not getting easier to maintain, they're getting a LOT more difficult to maintain.
 
Any engine is killable if the owner doesn't know how to or try to take care of them. And they're not getting easier to maintain, they're getting a LOT more difficult to maintain.
No shit. Also, the big change is computer control and sensors which is no big deal.
 
I change my own oil in my EcoDiesel. You need them warmed up and it takes a good 15 minutes to let all the oil drain on these. There's a certain standard of Synthetic oil for these and they hold 8 Liters, so 8 1/2 quarts. No shop is going to take the time to do it right, and no one stocks the oil anyway but the dealer. I'm not paying $100 for a $17 filter.

I'm about a third of way to a 90,000 mile transmission filter change. Dealership charges $800 for that one.
 
Another option is savage yards.
Well yeah that was my next point ..that we have a ton of these big Pick-n-Pull salvage yards around here in San Antonio and Austin... they are huge and I go to them. But that kind of makes my point that '90s nos parts are getting kind of hard to find. Not in the junkyard though . I can find a whole bunch of windstars in there- that tells me those are junk hahaha
 
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I know for a fact a bunch of '90s cars were crushed. .,Probably '80s also when they had the Cash for clunkers. Man I used to hear stories from mechanics how they would take the car out back and have to destroy the engine by running it with no antifreeze, and full of silica sand instead of oil -to blow the motor up. That was like the preferred method of the feds.
 
My wife (no pics) had been taking her car to the same Jiffy Lube for about 3 years before we started dating for tire rotations and oil changes. One morning she had a total flat, so I went out to change it and couldn't get the ****ing thing off. Tried everything. So she called her insurance company and a dude came out with a tow truck to help us out. It took him over an hour to get it off. He asked where we had been taking the vehicle because wherever it was they weren't actually doing any work to it. They were just taking her money and then calling her back later to tell her the job was done.

Needless to say we switched shops and immediately had the new one do complete inspection on the vehicle. So anyone in the CF area, don't go to the Jiffy Lube on University.

/csb

ok GIF
 
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The wife took her car to TiresPlus this afternoon after finding a small nail in her tire. It was within the zone for a patch for sure. The place told her that it was too close to the sidewalk and she needed a new tire. They also said the other front tire was too low on tread. She called. It’s like 2 miles away so I showed up. I see the nail circled with the chalk and the guy is claiming it is too close. I google it and show him he is wrong. They then tell me it’s against their policy. I tell them to take it off the Jack.

There is a different location about 5 miles
Away. Pull in, patch done in 20 minutes. Also says that the other tires look almost new. She has 7k miles on the car

Called back to the other place to tell the front desk guy he was a liar.

That shit bothers the hell out of me
i took a leaky tire to tires plus and they asked me if i knew how air works and how tires get low pressure when its cold and i told him he's a f*cking idiot bc it was august. Then he tried to tell tires can't be patched from the inside and i need a whole set of $600 tires.

Dude wasted a bunch of my f*cking time. I'm still pissed about that.
 
you would be surprised how many people just say, "yeah go ahead" and pay the 15 hundy

the corporate outfit here buying them all out is called, GB Auto Service, Inc., a portfolio company of Greenbriar Equity Group, L.P

And you republicans can't seem to figure out why we need to heavily tax both income and wealth above a certain level. There is a reason the game Monopoly was created. Unfortunately too many never learned it's lesson
 
I have a code reader, so I'm good there. And most external, and some internal, parts replacement I have the knowledge and tools to do.

Where I will take it to the shop is for something I might be capable of doing, but I don't have the time/expertise to get it done as quickly or without pain. There are things that you can do in the car, but taking the engine/trans/etc out would make it 5x quicker and easier.

Example of something I'm working on now. My wife got an older Mini (R50 Cooper). And it runs great, lower miles, just need some stuff because it's older. Already did the shocks, brakes, had to replace the oil pan, now I'm doing the ball joints (inner and outer), tie rods and bushings (including control arms). I got the sub frame out today, even though one of the nuts on a tie rod end didn't want to come off. Going to get everything cleaned up (old pan was leaking a bit, so sub frame is dirty as s***), put new bushings/ball joints/tie rods on tomorrow and get it put back together. All told, about $800 in parts. If I had a shop do all of it, would probably total about $4000.

Of course, it helps that I have all the required tools, those would be another $3-400 or more.
 
i took a leaky tire to tires plus and they asked me if i knew how air works and how tires get low pressure when its cold and i told him he's a f*cking idiot bc it was august. Then he tried to tell tires can't be patched from the inside and i need a whole set of $600 tires.

Dude wasted a bunch of my f*cking time. I'm still pissed about that.
Don't know if all Discount Tires are like this but the one close to our house in Tallahassee is amazing. So pleasant and I feel very honest. Also always by the fix or replace warranty. My idiot son was just driving around with a almost flat tire. I noticed it the morning of his HS graduation. I made him take it Discount Tire immediately as to not be late for his arrival at graduation. They got him right in. Determined there was a screw in the tire but couldn't be patched. They replaced it and sent him out the door. No charge.
 
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I have a code reader, so I'm good there. And most external, and some internal, parts replacement I have the knowledge and tools to do.

Where I will take it to the shop is for something I might be capable of doing, but I don't have the time/expertise to get it done as quickly or without pain. There are things that you can do in the car, but taking the engine/trans/etc out would make it 5x quicker and easier.

Example of something I'm working on now. My wife got an older Mini (R50 Cooper). And it runs great, lower miles, just need some stuff because it's older. Already did the shocks, brakes, had to replace the oil pan, now I'm doing the ball joints (inner and outer), tie rods and bushings (including control arms). I got the sub frame out today, even though one of the nuts on a tie rod end didn't want to come off. Going to get everything cleaned up (old pan was leaking a bit, so sub frame is dirty as s***), put new bushings/ball joints/tie rods on tomorrow and get it put back together. All told, about $800 in parts. If I had a shop do all of it, would probably total about $4000.

Of course, it helps that I have all the required tools, those would be another $3-400 or more.

Sounds like the first week of summer break for me.

'02 BMW 325i. Bad wheel vibration on right side front, and a whole lot of noisy, darty handling behavior overall. I actually had stopped driving it last fall, the handling was getting THAT bad.

Soooooo, front Bilstein struts, front control arms (ball joints were bad on right control arm), front subframe control arm bushings, front sway bar end links, front tie rod end links. Then - rear sway bar end links plus Bilstein shocks and springs (both sides had bottom spring ring broken off).

Looked to me like all the old parts were original to the car, manufacturer date 11/2001. The control arms...my gawd those put up a fight - and the shocks/struts were completely froze.

No wonder it handled terribly.

A week's worth of work, all in my driveway. $1200 in parts, then $150 I believe for the alignment. Only had to rent a spring compressor as far as tools were concerned (Autozone, net $0 when returned), borrowed the torque wrench and ball joint pickle fork from work. I had everything else thankfully.

I'm thinking I probably saved a good $2000 in labor. Absolutely zero suspension rattle/clunking now...almost disconcertingly quiet ride now. On the 4th I took it for an hour joy ride on the hilly twisties up here in NE Iowa...like driving a brand new car.
 
Used to take my 2015 Impala to a Reputable guy. Sold out to another person and prices doubled automatically.
Needed the plugs changed, V6 engine. Guy quoted $600.00 as the intake manifold needed to be pulled to get at the back 3 plugs by the firewall. Called the dealership, same price but they would flush the valley before putting it back together. Shopped around and found a place that did it for $300.00 and flush the valley. Just need to shop around for honest places. Getting harder though.
 
Don't know if all Discount Tires are like this but the one close to our house in Tallahassee is amazing. So pleasant and I feel very honest. Also always by the fix or repair warranty. My idiot son was just driving around with a almost flat tire. I noticed it the morning of his HS graduation. I made him take it Discount Tire immediately as to not be late for his arrival at graduation. They got him right in. Determined there was a screw in the tire but couldn't be patched. They replaced it and sent him out the door. No charge.
The discount tires here has a great reputation. I’m talking TiresPlus
 
Whatever anyone does, stay away from any McGrath shop. The lady that is the service manager for them is a professional hired out of Illinois. If anyone thinks McGrath was shady before... She can lie and fudge numbers like no other. I have many emails, recordings, and have sent all to the AG. Ole Gavin and family will play stupid and blame the high paid lady.
Lucky for myself, I have a third party warranty company, an employee, and lots of emails to back my claim against McGrath. They have no wiggle room, but you have to go to small claims to beat them. They will no show and not pay what is ordered making you return to court...
 
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I will also give a shout out to small town Laporte Mn. Lyle the local service station head mechanic and his three guys are phenomenal. While at the summer place in Walker, I drive the 20 minutes for oil changes, tires, and anything my 3500 needs. Small town honest shop helping the local folks in northern Mn. Oil changes are $60.00 cheaper, new tires were $400 less this year so far. If I can make it from Cedar Rapids to his shop during the 24 weeks up here it will get fixed here. He takes care of all the year around folks who pay his bills.
 
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You are so full of shit. I have a 1963, 1970, 1974 and 1990 vehicles. No problem getting parts for ANY of them. I wish you'd talk about something you know, like nothing!
Its an exaggeration but there are parts you cant get which I recently found on my daughters 08 Fusion.

I had a 93 Cutlass with going on 300 K and couldnt get a part so I gave up the car.

It was a hose but I found someone to create it for less. Oft its a supply chain issue

Dont be an ass.
 
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A lot of the problem with DIY is time.

Had to replace the upper rear brake light which wasnt cheap, but the actual replacment took a lot of time.

Speedoneter went out. Shops wanted 1200.

Youtube and 1 hour It was working. Some youtube said it would require the whole dash out. One little solder.
 
We have a guy we go to for everything. Oil change, brakes, tires, etc. Because we go for the small stuff, he doesn’t screw us on the big stuff. He’s always slammed but will bump someone for his regulars.
 
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A lot of the problem with DIY is time.

Had to replace the upper rear brake light which wasnt cheap, but the actual replacment took a lot of time.

Speedoneter went out. Shops wanted 1200.

Youtube and 1 hour It was working. Some youtube said it would require the whole dash out. One little solder.


So much of this. Took the car for an oil change last week, now the belly pan cover is flopping so I assume a bolt walked loose. Now I have to give up TBD time today to lift the car, find the right size bolt, and locktight. Independent mechanic isn't open on weekends so to get the car okay, I get to give up some of my Sat. Would have been easier to just do the oil myself apparently. Means the other 50 "easy but low priority time suck" projects don't get done.
 
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A lot of the problem with DIY is time.

Had to replace the upper rear brake light which wasnt cheap, but the actual replacment took a lot of time.

Speedoneter went out. Shops wanted 1200.

Youtube and 1 hour It was working. Some youtube said it would require the whole dash out. One little solder.

That's my biggest issue. There are a lot of things a shop can get done in an afternoon (tools/experience) that it would take me an entire weekend plus a couple of evenings. Then it's just a matter of is it worth my time or my money.

If it's a complete PITA, I'll pay. If it's just time consuming, but not hard, I'll do it myself.
 
I agree with time DIY/time factor. It took me almost 8 months to find the right time of the YEAR to do the work on my 325i. Of course, I don't have my own garage (Iowa = winter), and I did have a surgery taking out 10 weeks after early April before I felt strong enough to do the work physically.

But still...8 months without one of my vehicles - sometimes I felt like I'd never get that car back on the road. VERY disconcerting.

It felt SOOOOOOOOO DAMN GOOD getting that car back in the fold. And the kicker is because I FIXED IT, I knew it had gotten done correct, with the correct parts, etc.

And hell, even taking it to a shop often leads to pushing things out to up to a month nowadays. They're all saying the same thing - can't find (and/or keep) good mechanics any more, and a lot of parts for work they can get to seemingly take forever any more.

This is why for the rest of my life I'll own multiple vehicles. You simply cannot depend on either you having the time, shops having the time, parts being available, etc.
 
Same here. I do have quite a bit of tools that I've built up and will take on as much as I can but there are some things I won't mess with. 💩 like alignments, engine or transmission work no way. Replacing brakes, bearings, struts, shocks, somewhat easy to reach sensors, bulbs, I'll give it a go. YouTube helps a lot.
My dad loves German cars and had a number of BMWs when I was growing up. He was pretty handy with repairs and saved a lot of money doing his own work. I learned a lot watching and assisting him. German cars are a trip! My FIL can literally fix anything and does regularly. He's a retired machinist and farmer. When I run into repairs that I'm not comfortable with or don't have the tools for, I grab a 12 pack and drive out to the farm.
 
I have a code reader, so I'm good there. And most external, and some internal, parts replacement I have the knowledge and tools to do.

Where I will take it to the shop is for something I might be capable of doing, but I don't have the time/expertise to get it done as quickly or without pain. There are things that you can do in the car, but taking the engine/trans/etc out would make it 5x quicker and easier.

Example of something I'm working on now. My wife got an older Mini (R50 Cooper). And it runs great, lower miles, just need some stuff because it's older. Already did the shocks, brakes, had to replace the oil pan, now I'm doing the ball joints (inner and outer), tie rods and bushings (including control arms). I got the sub frame out today, even though one of the nuts on a tie rod end didn't want to come off. Going to get everything cleaned up (old pan was leaking a bit, so sub frame is dirty as s***), put new bushings/ball joints/tie rods on tomorrow and get it put back together. All told, about $800 in parts. If I had a shop do all of it, would probably total about $4000.

Of course, it helps that I have all the required tools, those would be another $3-400 or more.
I think the bushings on Gen 1 went out pretty quickly. As I recall they had clutch and transmissions issues, not bad but not super durable. Gen 2, which is what I owned, were terrible.
 
Don't know if all Discount Tires are like this but the one close to our house in Tallahassee is amazing. So pleasant and I feel very honest. Also always by the fix or replace warranty. My idiot son was just driving around with a almost flat tire. I noticed it the morning of his HS graduation. I made him take it Discount Tire immediately as to not be late for his arrival at graduation. They got him right in. Determined there was a screw in the tire but couldn't be patched. They replaced it and sent him out the door. No charge.
Discount tire in KC is great. TIres plus is suspect here.
 
Even if you do not plan to do the work yourself, I would suggest investing in a code reader.

This, in combination with Google, YouTube, and a brand-specific website (BenzWorld.com, eg.) leaves you armed with knowledge. Those specialty websites all have moderators, who are old-guy retired mechanics who love giving answer to questions. They even provide part numbers and the best websites for buying parts. (In my case, I have discovered that factory Mercedes parts vary widely in price and availability.) So far, I have always been able to find what I needed, but with some sleuthing.

The YouTube videos are commonly amateur productions, but 3-4 different videos are usually available. Mostly, you just need to know that you are working on the correct part ... that everything looks the same, and usually no one video maker shows everything you need to know.

I have been retired for fourteen years and living in Las Vegas the whole time. The whole service industry (Cars and home repairs in particular) here is corrupt and even the major brand auto dealerships lie through their teeth.

Just knowing what is going on is half the battle.
 
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I found it very odd that Honda dealership said fuel injectors are on a 3 week back order.
 
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Its an exaggeration but there are parts you cant get which I recently found on my daughters 08 Fusion.

I had a 93 Cutlass with going on 300 K and couldnt get a part so I gave up the car.

It was a hose but I found someone to create it for less. Oft its a supply chain issue

Dont be an ass.

Even if you do not plan to do the work yourself, I would suggest investing in a code reader.

This, in combination with Google, YouTube, and a brand-specific website (BenzWorld.com, eg.) leaves you armed with knowledge. Those specialty websites all have moderators, who are old-guy retired mechanics who love giving answer to questions. They even provide part numbers and the best websites to buy the parts. (In my case, I have discovered that factory Mercedes parts vary widely in price and availability.) So far, I have always been able to find what I needed, but with some sleuthing.

The YouTube videos are commonly amateur productions, but 3-4 different videos are usually available. Mostly, you just need to know that you are working on the correct part ... that everything looks the same, and usually no one video maker shows everything you need to know.

I have been retired for fourteen years and living in Las Vegas the whole time. The whole service industry (Cars and home repairs in particular) here is corrupt and even the major brand auto dealerships lie through their teeth.

Just knowing what is going on is half the battle.
Almost all parts stores have code readers where they'll do it for you.
 
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I think the bushings on Gen 1 went out pretty quickly. As I recall they had clutch and transmissions issues, not bad but not super durable. Gen 2, which is what I owned, were terrible.

Yeah, the bushing didn't feel as bad when the original skocks/struts were in. Put some Bilstein B4s in, now you can feel the bushings. Got the sub frame out and man, there are some worn out bushings in there. Going to feel like a new car by Monday.

Haven't had any issues with the clutch or trans, the only issue with the engine was the oil plug, which had about half the threads. Doesn't leak at all with a new pan in.

I will say, the oil filter housing could be in a better spot. I hate it when filters are mounted upside down and above other parts. The filter cover is easy enough to get to, but oil gets everywhere.
 
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Haven't been to a mechanic in like 25 years. Been to à tire shop and a muffler shop. Might eliminate them too. Don't trust any of them. Incompetence is the expectation.
 
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