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Tell me about Glacier National Park

JRHawk2003

HB King
Jul 9, 2003
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We are headed for a family trip later this Summer. I have been to Yellowstone and Devil's Tower so really looking forward to this one.

So we have purchased a 7 day vehicle pass already, but you need these other $2 passes for the Going to the Sun Road. My question is this; Do we really need that? Or could we come in at another place in the park and take the shuttles up to the other areas?

Any other pointers appreciated. Thanks HROT.
 
You can come in and take the shuttle. If you have a fear of heights this is definitely the time to let someone else drive. It is not the height so much as that the road is mostly sheer drop offs.
If you are just a little leery, I would recommend coming in from the northeast entrance so that much of your journey will be on the inside lane.
If we go back we may splurge and stay at the hotel on the lake then wander around for a day or two. The hikers the bus dropped off along the way were talking about being wary of bears:)
 
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You can come in and take the shuttle. If you have a fear of heights this is definitely the time to let someone else drive. It is not the height so much as that the road is mostly sheer drop offs.
If you are just a little leery, I would recommend coming in from the northeast entrance so that much of your journey will be on the inside lane.
If we go back we may splurge and stay at the hotel on the lake then wander around for a day or two. The hikers the bus dropped off along the way were talking about being wary of bears:)

I was thinking of avoiding the Going to the Sun Road area and going to Two Medicine. Looks like it might be a little less traffic.
 
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I was thinking of avoiding the Going to the Sun Road area and going to Two Medicine. Looks like it might be a little less traffic.
Going to the sun is definitely something you want to see in Glacier. Many of the best views and hikes are off it. I didn't find it scary from a driving perspective at all. But I've been on tons of mountain roads at this point.

I would just do it super early or at sunset to avoid some of the crowd. (probably super early) But if crowds don't bother you too much... it'll probably be like Yellowstone mid-day during the summer.

The Swiftcurrent area is really nice. Many Glacier lodge is pretty incredible looking by the lake. That area hasn't been ravaged by forest fires and is probably my favorite spot on the east side of the park. You have the grinnell glacier hike right near the lodge, which is an absolute classic and takes you up close to a few of the easily accessible remaining glaciers. You can also hike around the lake by the lodge, or hang out at the lodge to take in sunset/sunrise over the lake. This area is also home to quite a few grizzly bears, so bring your bear spray and hike in a group if at all possible.

The west side isn't as scenic, IMO, but, hasn't suffered the fire damage the east side has.
 
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Swiftcurrent lake photos:
45b239f0eedce678df6df87f50147b61.jpg



2-sunrise-at-swiftcurrent-lake-in-glacier-national-park-sean-phillips.jpg
 
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I think Grinnell glacier is a near must hike if you're at least decent shape because Glacier National Park's glaciers are disappearing really quick. This is best way to see one up close. (even then, it's still a nice jaunt)



Beautiful hike, to boot.

7035541_large_1555020366.jpg
 
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Another cool hike is Trail of the Cedars. Easy trail through a really nice cedar forest on the west side. Ends with a nice lake view. Going to the sun road is the quickest way between the east and west side. Worth spending a day driving the road and seeing the west side a bit, even if you're spending most of your time on the east side. The lake McDonald area on the west side is pretty nice.

 
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Another cool hike is Trail of the Cedars. Easy trail through a really nice cedar forest on the west side. Ends with a nice lake view. Going to the sun road is the quickest way between the east and west side. Worth spending a day driving the road and seeing the west side a bit, even if you're spending most of your time on the east side. The lake McDonald area on the west side is pretty nice.

Trail of the Cedars to Avalanche Lake is a great hike.
 
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It is a beautiful place. Enjoy the glaciers before they are all gone. It's all spectacular, but if you can do find a spot for a long day hike into the interior of the park. Well, as interior as you can get off a paved road or parking lot and back in one day. The place is chock full of lakes fed by streams.
Also, watch out for bears.
 
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It is a beautiful place. Enjoy the glaciers before they are all gone. It's all spectacular, but if you can do find a spot for a long day hike into the interior of the park. Well, as interior as you can get off a paved road or parking lot and back in one day. The place is chock full of lakes fed by streams.
Also, watch out for bears.
Good list of hikes by feature with difficulty information here.


Pay attention to the vertical feet gained figure. For example... Grinnell is up at 1800 gained over 7.5 miles or so. That's very different than the typical 7.5 miles in the midwest. (but totally rewarding...)
 
Bear spray is a must on any trail in the park.

Glacier has been a traffic jam the past couple times we have been there, can’t imagine what it will be like this summer.
 
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It is a beautiful place. Enjoy the glaciers before they are all gone. It's all spectacular, but if you can do find a spot for a long day hike into the interior of the park. Well, as interior as you can get off a paved road or parking lot and back in one day. The place is chock full of lakes fed by streams.
Also, watch out for bears.

I have been to Yellowstone. I have bear spray and we are staying in a group of 6. I am actually biking and hiking to prepare. Very excited.
 
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Good list of hikes by feature with difficulty information here.


Pay attention to the vertical feet gained figure. For example... Grinnell is up at 1800 gained over 7.5 miles or so. That's very different than the typical 7.5 miles in the midwest. (but totally rewarding...)

I have the vehicle pass already for the week, but we have to get these other $2 per person passes to ride the shuttles?

I would rather park and take the shuttles up and down the road.
 
I have the vehicle pass already for the week, but we have to get these other $2 per person passes to ride the shuttles?

I would rather park and take the shuttles up and down the road.
Yeah, could be better for you. Especially if you're wanting to hike specific areas off the shuttle path. Part of the fun to me in a new area is cruising through by vehicle to get a lay of the land enjoy the sights, so that's why I usually try to avoid shuttles and whatnot. But if that's what you have to work with, make the best of it. There are some neat hikes the shuttles will take you to, I'm sure. (the highline trail stands out as one... you'll be high above the road with some pretty awesome views)
 
I think Grinnell glacier is a near must hike if you're at least decent shape because Glacier National Park's glaciers are disappearing really quick. This is best way to see one up close. (even then, it's still a nice jaunt)



Beautiful hike, to boot.

7035541_large_1555020366.jpg
I want to go back. So much of the east side was closed last year. We didn’t get to do Many, Two Medicine. We did take a drive up to Pole Bridge.

Not Glacier, but we hiked the Danny On in Whitefish. A beautiful hike. Worth a ride on the gondola as well.

I’d also recommend taking a trip to Flathead Lake Brewery.

Depending on the time of year, fly fishing on the Flathead River is good as well.
 
I took a picture of my brother holding a snowball on the 4th of July on Going-to-the Sun road in the late 70's.
I'm guessing things are different there now.

Going-to-the-Sun is a remarkable drive.
 
I took a picture of my brother holding a snowball on the 4th of July on Going-to-the Sun road in the late 70's.
I'm guessing things are different there now.

Going-to-the-Sun is a remarkable drive.
I was there in August and you could still see a little snow. Very little, but as a boy who has spent most of his life in Florida, snow in mid August is quite the shock.
 
Going to the sun is definitely something you want to see in Glacier. Many of the best views and hikes are off it. I didn't find it scary from a driving perspective at all. But I've been on tons of mountain roads at this point.

I would just do it super early or at sunset to avoid some of the crowd. (probably super early) But if crowds don't bother you too much... it'll probably be like Yellowstone mid-day during the summer.

The Swiftcurrent area is really nice. Many Glacier lodge is pretty incredible looking by the lake. That area hasn't been ravaged by forest fires and is probably my favorite spot on the east side of the park. You have the grinnell glacier hike right near the lodge, which is an absolute classic and takes you up close to a few of the easily accessible remaining glaciers. You can also hike around the lake by the lodge, or hang out at the lodge to take in sunset/sunrise over the lake. This area is also home to quite a few grizzly bears, so bring your bear spray and hike in a group if at all possible.

The west side isn't as scenic, IMO, but, hasn't suffered the fire damage the east side has.
I strongly support staying at Many Glacier Lodge if you can. Loved our time there.

They used to have signs saying the glaciers would all be gone by 2020. It's my understanding that those have been removed or replaced.
 
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Rule 1 is start early to avoid the heat of the day and/or afternoon thunderstorms at high elevation. I also like to avoid other humans. Rule 2 is keep your feet dry by wearing gaiters or at least bringing extra socks. The vegetation can be wet with dew and close in on the trail, and your socks will get wet and water will pool in your shoes/boots. This will ruin your day. Others have mentioned bear spray, which is also strongly recommended.

If your group of 6 has 2 vehicles, it opens up a lot of great possibilities for hikes that aren't out-and-back. It sounds like you a going to be in pretty good shape, so here are some of my favorites from when we used to live in the area.

Pitamakan and Dawson passes. An 18-mile loop from Two Medicine. Park by Pray Lake, and I recommend hiking the loop CCW. The only strenuous part is the ~1 mile climb of switchbacks up to Pitamakan Pass, otherwise the elevation gain is gradual. The best part is the ~3 mile walk along the arete on the Continental Divide as you go south from Cut Bank Pass to Dawson Pass. The last 6 miles or so will be down in the trees and pretty monotonous, but the rest has great open views.

These other hikes can be shuttle hikes where half of your party can park at one trailhead and the others at the other trailhead. Just remember to exchange keys when you meet up around halfway and eat lunch.

Belly River and Ptarmigan Tunnel. 20 miles from the Belly River Trailhead (just south of the border crossing) to Many Glacier. Open views almost the entire way and the views from north of the tunnel are the BEST in the park. Dawn Mist Falls is surprisingly big. The climb to the tunnel from the south is tougher, so if some of your party are in better shape, have them start at Many Glacier. You will likely only see 2 or 3 other parties of people in the segment north of the tunnel.

Gunsight Pass. 20 miles from the trailhead near Jackson Glacier Overlook to Lake McDonald Lodge. 3-4 miles on the east end and 6 miles on the west end are in the trees. Great views and two passes. Guaranteed mountain goats around Lake Ellen Wilson. West-to-east is more strenuous with an additional 1000 feet of elevation gain. The downhill east-to-west from Sperry Chalet will destroy your knees, but worth it. Probably won't see many people east of Gunsight Pass.

Logan Pass to Many Glacier. ~17 miles from Logan Pass to Swiftcurrent Trailhead. No real climbing if you start at Logan Pass. But I highly recommend taking the steep ~1 mile spur trail to Grinnell Glacier Overlook from just south of Granite Park. Worth the work. This trail is crazy busy. If you don't start early, you will be in a solid line of humans. No solitude, but great views and easy hiking. The climb to the pass from the east isn't too bad.

Another great place to hike in the area is Jewel Basin. It's mostly locals, so it's really busy on weekends, but not bad during the week.
 
Rule 1 is start early to avoid the heat of the day and/or afternoon thunderstorms at high elevation. I also like to avoid other humans. Rule 2 is keep your feet dry by wearing gaiters or at least bringing extra socks. The vegetation can be wet with dew and close in on the trail, and your socks will get wet and water will pool in your shoes/boots. This will ruin your day. Others have mentioned bear spray, which is also strongly recommended.

If your group of 6 has 2 vehicles, it opens up a lot of great possibilities for hikes that aren't out-and-back. It sounds like you a going to be in pretty good shape, so here are some of my favorites from when we used to live in the area.

Pitamakan and Dawson passes. An 18-mile loop from Two Medicine. Park by Pray Lake, and I recommend hiking the loop CCW. The only strenuous part is the ~1 mile climb of switchbacks up to Pitamakan Pass, otherwise the elevation gain is gradual. The best part is the ~3 mile walk along the arete on the Continental Divide as you go south from Cut Bank Pass to Dawson Pass. The last 6 miles or so will be down in the trees and pretty monotonous, but the rest has great open views.

These other hikes can be shuttle hikes where half of your party can park at one trailhead and the others at the other trailhead. Just remember to exchange keys when you meet up around halfway and eat lunch.

Belly River and Ptarmigan Tunnel. 20 miles from the Belly River Trailhead (just south of the border crossing) to Many Glacier. Open views almost the entire way and the views from north of the tunnel are the BEST in the park. Dawn Mist Falls is surprisingly big. The climb to the tunnel from the south is tougher, so if some of your party are in better shape, have them start at Many Glacier. You will likely only see 2 or 3 other parties of people in the segment north of the tunnel.

Gunsight Pass. 20 miles from the trailhead near Jackson Glacier Overlook to Lake McDonald Lodge. 3-4 miles on the east end and 6 miles on the west end are in the trees. Great views and two passes. Guaranteed mountain goats around Lake Ellen Wilson. West-to-east is more strenuous with an additional 1000 feet of elevation gain. The downhill east-to-west from Sperry Chalet will destroy your knees, but worth it. Probably won't see many people east of Gunsight Pass.

Logan Pass to Many Glacier. ~17 miles from Logan Pass to Swiftcurrent Trailhead. No real climbing if you start at Logan Pass. But I highly recommend taking the steep ~1 mile spur trail to Grinnell Glacier Overlook from just south of Granite Park. Worth the work. This trail is crazy busy. If you don't start early, you will be in a solid line of humans. No solitude, but great views and easy hiking. The climb to the pass from the east isn't too bad.

Another great place to hike in the area is Jewel Basin. It's mostly locals, so it's really busy on weekends, but not bad during the week.

This ticket system is confusing. I have the vehicle pass for the week. But I need a special Going to the Sun Road $2 per person per day pass? And it seems those are out but an allotment is released 2 weeks prior.
 
This ticket system is confusing. I have the vehicle pass for the week. But I need a special Going to the Sun Road $2 per person per day pass? And it seems those are out but an allotment is released 2 weeks prior.
GTTSR pass is a new thing this year, so not really sure how it works. The pass maybe a good thing as the Logan Pass parking lot fills very early (like 6 AM early on some mornings).
 
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This ticket system is confusing. I have the vehicle pass for the week. But I need a special Going to the Sun Road $2 per person per day pass? And it seems those are out but an allotment is released 2 weeks prior.
I think the per person day pass is for the shuttles? All we have is the going to the sun road pass for our trip but we don't plan on using the shuttles
 
I think the per person day pass is for the shuttles? All we have is the going to the sun road pass for our trip but we don't plan on using the shuttles
I believe I’d read the GTTSR pass was free as well, but you must have one to enter the road.
 
I believe I’d read the GTTSR pass was free as well, but you must have one to enter the road.

I happened to get on, and they made some available on our dates next month and I got some for the St. Mary's Visitor's Center on one afternoon. It was in the afternoon, but I was lucky to get any at all.
 
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I happened to get on, and they made some available on our dates next month and I got some for the St. Mary's Visitor's Center on one afternoon. It was in the afternoon, but I was lucky to get any at all.
You’re going to love it. My trip was a guys trip. Probably have to do a family trip next year. Enjoy.
 
I’ll be there in 48 hours. Haven’t been back since 1998 so looking forward to it. I’ve got the bike strapped to the car and will be doing some biking, hiking, and a bit of alpine climbing over the next week. I’ll give you the skinny when I leave. From what I remember 20+ years ago, it’s one of my favorite national parks. I hope it lives up to what’s in my head from back then.
 
I am a driver for sure when it comes to trips, but at glacier, I was very glad we booked one of the old red open top park tour buses for going to the sun road, it was a rare treat to sit back and enjoy the scenery with an experienced and knowledgeable driver (I’m sure my family agrees.)
 
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Also, since you're quite close, take the time to go to Waterton ( if you are able to get into Canada, that is.). It's awesome, too.

check out prince of wales hotel if you make it up there. But I think that might be tricky as Canada still has its boarders closed.
prince-of-wales-hotel-L-15.jpg
 
This ticket system is confusing. I have the vehicle pass for the week. But I need a special Going to the Sun Road $2 per person per day pass? And it seems those are out but an allotment is released 2 weeks prior.
I have to defer to others on the ticket/vehicle pass thing. It's new this year. I do know many locals are p***ed. One of the great attractions of living in the area is that you can go to the park on a nice day. Now locals basically aren't able to access Sun Road (and its trailheads) unless they reserve a pass well in advance. There has to be some way of alleviating traffic without screwing over the locals.
 
We are headed for a family trip later this Summer. I have been to Yellowstone and Devil's Tower so really looking forward to this one.

So we have purchased a 7 day vehicle pass already, but you need these other $2 passes for the Going to the Sun Road. My question is this; Do we really need that? Or could we come in at another place in the park and take the shuttles up to the other areas?

Any other pointers appreciated. Thanks HROT.

You’re a cyclist, right?
 
We went one year in late June for a day and the GTTS road was opened the following day. Damn.

The ticket thing sounds like a hassle, but if they can cut down on the traffic, it will be worth it. We’ve sat for hours before on the road going into the main entrance. Thankfully, a friend who lives just outside the park boundary showed me the way to avoid all that.
 
Glacier National Park is an American national park located in northwestern Montana, on the Canada–United States border, adjacent to the Canadian provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. The park encompasses over 1 million acres (4,000 km2) and includes parts of two mountain ranges (sub-ranges of the Rocky Mountains), over 130 named lakes, more than 1,000 different species of plants, and hundreds of species of animals. This vast pristine ecosystem is the centerpiece of what has been referred to as the "Crown of the Continent Ecosystem," a region of protected land encompassing 16,000 square miles (41,000 km2).[4]

The region that became Glacier National Park was first inhabited by Native Americans. Upon the arrival of European explorers, it was dominated by the Blackfeet in the east and the Flathead in the western regions. Under pressure, the Blackfeet ceded the mountainous parts of their treaty lands in 1895 to the federal government; it later became part of the park. Soon after the establishment of the park on May 11, 1910, a number of hotels and chalets were constructed by the Great Northern Railway. These historic hotels and chalets are listed as National Historic Landmarks and a total of 350 locations are on the National Register of Historic Places. By 1932 work was completed on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, later designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, which provided greater accessibility for automobiles into the heart of the park.

Glacier National Park's mountains began forming 170 million years ago when ancient rocks were forced eastward up and over much younger rock strata. Known as the Lewis Overthrust, these sedimentary rocks are considered to have some of the finest examples of early life fossils on Earth. The current shapes of the Lewis and Livingston mountain ranges and positioning and size of the lakes show the telltale evidence of massive glacial action, which carved U-shaped valleys and left behind moraines that impounded water, creating lakes. Of the estimated 150 glaciers which existed in the park in the mid-19th century during the late Little Ice Age, only 25 active glaciers remained by 2010.[5] Scientists studying the glaciers in the park have estimated that all the active glaciers may disappear by 2030 if current climate patterns persist.[6]

Glacier National Park has almost all its original native plant and animal species. Large mammals such as grizzly bears, moose, and mountain goats, as well as rare or endangered species like wolverines and Canadian lynxes, inhabit the park. Hundreds of species of birds, more than a dozen fish species, and a few reptiles and amphibian species have been documented. The park has numerous ecosystems ranging from prairie to tundra. The easternmost forests of western redcedar and hemlock grow in the southwest portion of the park. Forest fires are common in the park. There has been a fire every year of the park's existence except 1964. 64 fires occurred in 1936, the most on record.[7][8] In 2003, six fires burned approximately 136,000 acres (550 km2), more than 13% of the park.[9]

Glacier National Park borders Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada—the two parks are known as the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park and were designated as the world's first International Peace Park in 1932. Both parks were designated by the United Nations as Biosphere Reserves in 1976, and in 1995 as World Heritage sites.[10] In April 2017, the joint park received a provisional Gold Tier designation as Waterton-Glacier International Dark Sky Park through the International Dark Sky Association,[11] the first transboundary dark sky park.
 
Glacier National Park is an American national park located in northwestern Montana, on the Canada–United States border, adjacent to the Canadian provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. The park encompasses over 1 million acres (4,000 km2) and includes parts of two mountain ranges (sub-ranges of the Rocky Mountains), over 130 named lakes, more than 1,000 different species of plants, and hundreds of species of animals. This vast pristine ecosystem is the centerpiece of what has been referred to as the "Crown of the Continent Ecosystem," a region of protected land encompassing 16,000 square miles (41,000 km2).[4]

The region that became Glacier National Park was first inhabited by Native Americans. Upon the arrival of European explorers, it was dominated by the Blackfeet in the east and the Flathead in the western regions. Under pressure, the Blackfeet ceded the mountainous parts of their treaty lands in 1895 to the federal government; it later became part of the park. Soon after the establishment of the park on May 11, 1910, a number of hotels and chalets were constructed by the Great Northern Railway. These historic hotels and chalets are listed as National Historic Landmarks and a total of 350 locations are on the National Register of Historic Places. By 1932 work was completed on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, later designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, which provided greater accessibility for automobiles into the heart of the park.

Glacier National Park's mountains began forming 170 million years ago when ancient rocks were forced eastward up and over much younger rock strata. Known as the Lewis Overthrust, these sedimentary rocks are considered to have some of the finest examples of early life fossils on Earth. The current shapes of the Lewis and Livingston mountain ranges and positioning and size of the lakes show the telltale evidence of massive glacial action, which carved U-shaped valleys and left behind moraines that impounded water, creating lakes. Of the estimated 150 glaciers which existed in the park in the mid-19th century during the late Little Ice Age, only 25 active glaciers remained by 2010.[5] Scientists studying the glaciers in the park have estimated that all the active glaciers may disappear by 2030 if current climate patterns persist.[6]

Glacier National Park has almost all its original native plant and animal species. Large mammals such as grizzly bears, moose, and mountain goats, as well as rare or endangered species like wolverines and Canadian lynxes, inhabit the park. Hundreds of species of birds, more than a dozen fish species, and a few reptiles and amphibian species have been documented. The park has numerous ecosystems ranging from prairie to tundra. The easternmost forests of western redcedar and hemlock grow in the southwest portion of the park. Forest fires are common in the park. There has been a fire every year of the park's existence except 1964. 64 fires occurred in 1936, the most on record.[7][8] In 2003, six fires burned approximately 136,000 acres (550 km2), more than 13% of the park.[9]

Glacier National Park borders Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada—the two parks are known as the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park and were designated as the world's first International Peace Park in 1932. Both parks were designated by the United Nations as Biosphere Reserves in 1976, and in 1995 as World Heritage sites.[10] In April 2017, the joint park received a provisional Gold Tier designation as Waterton-Glacier International Dark Sky Park through the International Dark Sky Association,[11] the first transboundary dark sky park.
Thanks, Lute.
 
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